Monday, August 29, 2011

Backroads to Bannack


Two weekends ago I rode the cyclocross bike to historic Bannack.  Bannack was the first capital of the territory of Montana.  It was a true wild west town.  They mined gold, hung thieves and cattle rustlers, and drank plenty of whiskey!  It is one of Montana's famous ghost towns and like the Coolidge townsite, is a piece of Montana history.

It started with listening to an old timer's stories of the wild west.  This man grew up in the mountains and canyons to the south of Bannack.  His grandfather homestaded here in the 1800's and his father and now he lives in the same log cabin (c. 1860's).  He told of stories of cattle rustlers and a lawless land.  And there was gold...

I'm living in Dillon, Montana.   It is a cow town of about 5000 folks, sitting in a wide valley at about 5000ft elevation.   The Beaverhead River runs through town, site of some amazing fishing, and the Big Hole valley and river a few miles afar offer up even better fishing.   I've landed several 18" browns and rainbows with an occasional 20+ incher.   I can definitely say that I live in a pretty special place.

So after listening to this man tell his story, I decided to check out Bannack via bike.  I've been to Bannack by car (about a 25 mile drive from Dillon), but this time I decided to take the road less traveled.  I mapped a backroads route that would take me past a few different mines, along the old stagecoach route and finally down Hangman's Gulch to the old ghost town.   Soon it was Saturday and I was off.


I headed out from the KOA campground that I have been calling home and immediately started climbing my favorite local hill,  the two mile long ascent up Ten Mile Rd.   Ten Mile climbs about 500 ft to the Argenta Flats...my playground.  It is here that I take my CX bike on a weekly basis.  There are miles of dirt roads and tracks to explore and I can ride anywhere from 20 to 50+ miles into Pioneer mountains from here. 


I rode out to the Ten Mile Stage Stop then crossed highway278 (the only asphalt road I had to cross today)  and continued to climb up toward Badger Mountain.  I worked steadily through 7000 ft elevation and arrive at the New Departure Mine.  Road Closed!

I didn't know it but the road ended at the private property of the mine.  No problems, I would just go around, but instead of backtracking, I turned up a single track and kept climbing.  The CX bike did its best, but I finally had to perch it on my shoulder and hike it.  I stumbled across a closed mine...maybe it was the Old Departure Mine, and continued up.  At the ridge I hit the next FS road, and with Badger mountain to my direct north, began to tear it downhill.

The backside of the mountain was amazing.  Awesome vistas in every direction and not a soul to disturb me.  In fact, I only saw three vehicles the whole ride, another thing I love about Montana.


I took a short detour to the DelMonte Mine to check it out.  it was too cool.  Then it was past Road Agent Rock, site of Bannack Sheriff Plumber's lookout for unsuspecting miners and coaches.  He robbed several of them of their gold before being hung in Bannack.   There are still remnants of the old coach road along side the rock.


I tore off the the hillside on my descent to Bannack. I was looking for the second lefty into Hangman's Gulch and almost missed it.  Due to its lack of use, it was overgrown and easy to miss.  This rocky trail was slow-go, but very scenic.   The gulch dropped me off at the gallows and then the town.   When it was all said and done I had biked or hiked 22 miles.   Susan arrived shortly there after and we had lunch at the creek.


This off road ride did just what I had wanted it to do, give me an escape from my reality and transport me back to a time of pioneers.   I am so fortunate to live where I do!

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